Friday 10 October 2014

protect your home and your fence

Anti-vandal paint is also known as anti-climb, anti-intruder and anti-scale paint. As these names suggest it is intended to prevent intruders from climbing up a surface where it has been applied and gaining access to a property. The paint generally has a gloss appearance and usually comes in dark colours so, for cosmetic reasons, it may not be suitable for all surfaces. Care should be taken to select a product that remains effective in both hot and cold weather conditions. Once applied anti-vandal paint does not dry, leaving a slippery surface which is very difficult to climb. Although it is not usually harmful, it will stain the clothes - and body - of anyone who tries to climb it.
Anti-vandal paint can be used on many surfaces and is often applied to walls and drainpipes - or any other surface or object that an intruder may attempt to climb. The paint is applied with a brush or by hand whilst wearing a protective glove. Once in place it should last for at least a year. However, the lifespan will depend on how often people attempt to climb the surface to which it has been applied.


Anti-Vandal Paint and the Law

Under the Occupier's Liability Act 1984 householders owe a duty of care to anyone on their property, whether they are entitled to be there or not. The duty is to protect people from an injury as a result of a foreseen hazard. If anti-vandal paint has been applied to a wall and an intruder slips and injures himself as a result, this is something that the householder could have predicted. Householders could also be caught up by the Highways Act 1980 if anti-vandal paint is used on a wall or surface which adjoins a public highway. The Highways Act states that care must be taken to avoid "harm or injury" to any person or animal using the highway.
The local crime reduction or crime prevention police officer should be happy to advise householders if they have any doubts about the legality, or efficacy, of any intruder deterrent methods they intend to use.

paint your fence

A fence is a very significant part of your home. Not only does it provide security and privacy, but it’s also the first thing people see when coming to your property. Whether you want to sell your home or you’re just entertaining guests, it’s important to make a good first impression. Therefore, you should maintain your fence on a regular basis and keep it looking its best.

Preparing the Fence

Before you get to the painting it’s important to prepare the fence and the surrounding area. This involves removing cobwebs from corners, trimming the grass around the fence, and either scrubbing or power washing away stains and bird droppings. If the paint is flaking, remove it with a scraper or wire brush. Also, be sure to inspect the fence for loose parts or signs of termites. If you suspect an infestation call an exterminator before you begin to paint.
If parts of the fence are loose, be sure to tighten them or call a local contractor. Additionally, before painting, be sure to place plastic or some other protective material beneath the bottom of the fence so that your grass doesn’t get painted and your brush won’t get dirty with leaves and dirt.

Wooden Fences

When it comes to wooden fences, paint can do more than just improve the look. Without quality UV-inhibiting paint, your fence will be more susceptible to sun damage. Use outdoor paint that’s specially-formulated to withstand fading from the sun, mold and mildew, and moisture from the rain. This will keep your fence looking great and help it withstand exposure to the elements.

Metal Fences

While metal fences don’t warp or rot, they do tend to rust over time. This looks very bad and can also weaken the fence and cause screws to fall apart. Before painting, scrape off any loose rust with a wire brush. Then apply a rust converter to all areas where you see rust. This acts like a primer and converts the rust into a protective layer, over which you can paint.

Tips

Invest in quality materials. A cheap paintbrush will lose its bristles and become stiff easily. The same is true for paint – the better the quality the longer it will last and protect your fence. Alternatively, some people prefer painting with a roller and feel it’s more comfortable; so purchase a good one if that’s what you’ll be using.
When beginning to paint, be aware of where the sun is and try not to paint in its path or during the hottest part of the day. Not only will the sun make things harder on you but it will also make the paint dry faster than it should.
Once everything is ready to go, be aware that the painting itself can take quite a long time. You’ll have to paint the front, sides and top of the fence, and apply two or three coats. This can be an exhausting, time-consuming project. If you’re not sure you’re up to the task, contact  the painting specialist .

Tuesday 2 September 2014

choosing colours

A simple decision at face value- choose a paint color or color scheme for your home - can turn even the strongest amongst us into quivering wimps. The fear of picking the wrong color has many homeowners paralyzed and unable to make a decision. You can always hire a decorator or Color Design Expert to help you solve your color selection problem. However, if your would rather do it own your own you can use a simple technique that I recommend to my clients and decorating workshop students.

1. Make a trip to your local home improvement center and head straight for the paint department. Pick whatever color you take a fancy to. Don't worry about where you will be using the color for now. Just have fun with your choices this will help you reduce the intimidation of choosing a color. This is the first step in overcoming your fear.

2. Grab you favorite fashion magazines and cut out images with colors you find attractive. After all if you are attracted to a color in make-up or fashion, odds are you will like that color in your home.

3. Find an inspiration piece in your home that you absolutely love. Use the colors from that piece to guide you in you color choices.

4. Buy pint or smaller sizes of paint colors you have decided on and apply them to a small section of wall or posterboard (tape it to the wall). Watch how the color changes through out the day as it responds to daylight and artificial light. IF you definately love the color -then get the color and start painting. If not just repeat this exercise.

remove old wallpaper

Before you start be aware that wallpaper removal can be labor intensive and could cause severe damage to the walls. Most removal damage is due to the lack of a wallpaper primer before the walls were wallpapered, resulting in the glue being absorbed into the wallboard. The top layers of wallboard (paper) will try to come off with the wallpaper backing. If this occurs in large areas, call a professional.

There are many different types of wallpaper on the market today. Some are dry stripable, solid vinyl and fabric backed papers can usually be removed by simply pulling them from the wall without wetting.

Most residential wallpapers are of the " vinyl coated "type. Vinyl coated papers are by far the most common in residential homes. The vinyl face of these papers is usually "dry stripable" meaning that the face will separate and leave only the paper backing on the wall. Start by removing as much as the vinyl face as possible. Find a loose corner, you may need a putty knife or scraper to get started.

After all the vinyl face is removed the paper backing should also be removed. The paper backing will require a wet removal. Fill a five gallon bucket to about half full with warm water, add about a cap full of fabric softener. 
Turn off the electrical power to the roomApply this solution to the wall with a paint roller or garden sprayer, a sponge can be used in corners. Wet a four or five foot section of the wall and make sure the wall section remains saturated with the solution for about  ten minutes. Remove the wet backing with a four or six inch putty knife or scraper.

After all the backing is removed finish cleaning the walls with a hand sponge and fresh solution of fabric softener and warm water. Allow the walls to dry and apply a wallpaper primer if you plan to re- wallpaper the walls. If you plan to paint apply an acrylic primer/sealer to the walls before painting.

How much paint do i need ,you can google examples of this calculator

Painter Forum's Paint Quantity Calculator 

Round all measurements up to the nearest 1/2 ft. and enter all measurements in decimals. for example 12 ft. and 3 inches should be entered as 12.5
Do not deduct for windows and doors, this will account for setup and cleanup paint waste 


      INTERIOR SMOOTH WALL PAINTING :

      1. Measure the height of the wall from top of baseboard to ceiling, or to ceiling molding.

        Enter the number of feet


      2. Measure the distance around the room, this will be the total length of all four walls.

        Enter the number of feet

        Gallons for one coat of paint

Everyone can have beautiful woodwork.

The woodwork inside your home - skirting boards, doors, door frames, architraves, windows and their frames and sills, and even picture frames - gives an opportunity to make a stylish statement with color.

While the main walls of any room should keep a classic, neutral color palette that will remain fresh to your eye, woodwork can highlight the home's special architectural features. 

Some woodwork is not necessarily a feature that you want to highlight; you can match cupboard or closet doors to the color of the walls to make them blend in. Then choose a single complementary or contrasting colour for the remaining woodwork to draw attention to special features. We recommend a single colour to highlight woodwork, to create a sense of continuity and flow throughout the area.

Don't overlook white as a colour for woodwork! At Courtney and Wise, we've put fresh white trim on walls of rich apricot or periwinkle blue for an elegant look. You can also use near color matches - eggshell and taupe, for example, or dove grey with charcoal grey. Carefully-chosen strong contrasting colours can make a bold, contemporary statement. For spring, berry shades that bring a pink cast to neutrals are a soft, muted colour scheme that looks fresh.


Once you've determined your colours, use an undercoat followed by one or two coats of full gloss, semi-gloss, or matte enamel. Traditionally, oil-based paints have been the first choice for woodwork. However, modern formulations allow us to make more environmentally friendly choices of water-based enamel. This makes for quick clean-up in high traffic areas such as kitchens, as well.
The extra time involved in careful planning of your home's woodwork trim will pay off in beautiful rooms.

Thursday 12 June 2014

bold colours for summer

SUMMER BRIGHTS

blue outdoor
Wall painted in Barrier Reef, £18.98 for 2.5L; table painted in Hot Mustard 10-year exterior gloss, £15.95 for 750ml; both Santex
Contrast strong colours to take your patio from bland to bold
Barrier Reef, Sandtex
Barrier Reef masonry paint, £18.98 for
2.5L, Feature Wall range, Sandtex
‘I love the idea of using strong shades in a small courtyard garden to make a wow feature of the space. I particularly like colours that remind me of a hot Mediterranean day by the sea, even if our summer climate isn’t quite so inviting, so this deep, searing blue, which looks fantastic side-by-side a sunshine yellow, really fits the bill.’ Judy Smith Colour Consultant, Crown
Mid Lead Little Green
Mid Lead Colour masonry paint, £50 for
5L, Little Greene
‘A very dark grey creates an amazing backdrop and the perfect foil to wonderful, natural plant tones such as pale green, deep burgundy, creams and whites. It reminds me of the volcanic cliffs and wild grasses of the Azores. Use dark colours carefully, though. Try painting one wall on a small patio or a trellis in a traditional garden.’ Diogo Correia, Head of Landscaping, The Chelsea Gardener

summer decorating

 PLUM CHOICE
purple
Fence painted in Summer Damson, £22.99 for 2.5L, Cuprinol Garden Shades
Purples will add interest to your garden throughout the year 
Summer Damson, Cuprinol
Summer Damson, £22.99 for 2.5L,
Garden Shades range, Cuprinol
‘We’re all familiar with adding colour to gardens through planting, but this can be complemented
by painted wood. I love this rich plum shade for fencing as it contrasts beautifully with green leaves, making the colour pop. And when the days are cold and grey and the flowers long gone, this warm, sumptuous shade will still bring the garden to life.’
 LouiseSmith 
Senior Global Colour Designer, Cuprinol

Trilby, Earthborn
Trilby eggshell, £28 for 750ml,
Earthborn
‘Colours seem much paler outside and something that seems subtle in the house can
be disappointingly insipid in the garden. An artificial green can look uneasy against foliage, so I like to go for deep, slightly sludgy tones such as this ecofriendly eggshell. It’s neither a green nor a grey and sets off silver foliage and dark leaves wonderfully.’ Joanna Herald Garden Designer, Herald Nicholson Associates

summer time for exterior decorating

MAKE AN ENTRANCE

Little Greene Masonry Paint
Walls painted in Shirting Masonry paint, £50 for 5L, Little Greene
White exterior walls look beautifully smart with foliage and plants. 

Yellow 322, Mineral Paints
Yellow 322, £17.25 a kg (plus VAT),
Keim Mineral Paints
‘I used this earthy yellow on a wall in a garden I designed for the Chelsea Flower Show in 2011. It harmonised with the Cotswold drystone walling and helped accentuate the yellow in the planting palette. I wanted a modern colour to contrast with the traditional elements of the garden. I like the dynamic between old and new – it gives a garden a sense of timelessness.’ Cleve West Garden Designer

Shirting, Little Greene
Shirting masonry paint, £50 for 5L,
Little Greene
‘The longer I design, the more I
realise that light in the garden,
both natural and artificial, is one
of the most important things to
consider. Paint the walls
surrounding a patio white and
you instantly increase the light
levels outside, as well as inside
the house. Anything looks good
grown against white walls – from
clean, green lines of low box
hedging to tall, vibrant verbenas.’ 
Caroline Tilston, 
Garden Designer

summer decorating ideas

Colour Experts And Garden Designers On How Painting A Wall, Fence Or Furniture Can Transform Your Outdoor Space

For best results tackle outdoor painting jobs when the weather is dry and fair. Never paint wood when it’s damp as the paint will blister and flake off, and avoid painting in direct sunlight or when temperatures exceed 30°C. Exterior surfaces also need to be prepared before painting. Treat bare wood surfaces with a knot and resin blocking primer, then prime before painting with an exterior eggshell. Any surface that has previously been painted will need sanding first to remove loose and blistered paint.
SELECTING YOUR SHADE
Choosing paint for a shed, patio wall or window frames is just like choosing a colour for inside. Don’t grab the first pot you see, look at the colour of the plants in your garden and work out what will tone or contrast with those. Also consider other external surfaces. If you have warm-coloured brick walls, then cooler grey-greens work well, but if it’s all-white render, then stronger punchier hues can create a statement. Start with tester pots and look at the colours in different light.

SHED LIGHT

Green Shed
Painted in Willow, £7.99 a litre, Wood Protector range, Protek
Transform a humble garden structure with a coat of paint. Painted in Willow
Antique Rose, Protek
Antique Rose stain,£15.98 for 2.5L,
Royal Exterior Wood Finish, Protek
‘As a mother of two girls, I’ve been hormonally reprogrammed to love pink. My favourite shade is a deep, dusky rose stain, which is quintessentially English and green foliage stands out beautifully against it. I’ve used it to paint an arbour, providing coloured support to climbing roses in traditional white and cream. It also looks gorgeous painted on the girls’ playhouse.’ Caroline Thornborough Protek
Pigeon, Farrow and Ball
Pigeon exterior eggshell, £21.50 for
750ml, Farrow & Ball
‘I’ve used this multifaceted blue-grey-green colour on my summerhouse – it has a lovely earthy feel. Meanwhile, my garden furniture is painted in strong Hague Blue and all my exterior doors in Green Smoke. Strong greens and blues work well outside as they accent the natural tones in the garden, and add flashes of soft colour in the winter months.’Sarah Cole Farrow & Ball

Tuesday 27 May 2014

HOW TO PREP WEATHERED WOOD FOR PAINTING

Those of us with old, weathered outbuildings eventually reach a point where we must decide if a building is worth saving. Even though the structure might not have historic or architectural value, it may still be of use as a place to store garden equipment, keep chickens or house our collection of cars or auto parts.
Restoring an old, weathered outbuilding takes a little more work than you might expect. It may require being pulled "back into square" to reverse a noticeable racking. It may also need a new foundation, roof or cross braces for added support. But once the structural work is complete and the roof replaced, the last step of the restoration should be a coat of paint, a project that is also a little more work that you might expect.
Unpainted wood is said to have "weathered" which is usually characterized by a gray, washed-out appearance. Outbuildings that have stood for many years without paint may have areas of rot or have splintered or cracked in spots. Before weathered wood can be painted, it will require extensive prep work to ensure that the paint stays on for more than just a couple of years.
Step 1: Prepare the Surface
With old buildings such as my 130-year-old barn, water-blasting the loose paint is not a recommended practice. The high pressure of the sprayer can knock those old boards loose and infuse the bare areas of wood with water. Instead, the paint should be scraped off by hand using a paint scraping tool. Do keep in mind that old paint may contain lead, and proper precautions should be taken when removing those old fragments of paint.
As you scrape away the paint, this is the time to take note of the wood's condition. Old, weathered wood that is moist and spongy is said to suffer from "damp" or "wet" rot. Areas that are dry and crumbly are referred to as "dry rot." Both dry and damp rot are caused by microorganisms that must be removed to prevent the rot from spreading. For smaller areas of rot, cutting away the damaged section and patching it with a wood plug will do. Larger areas of damage may require replacing whole sections of lap siding, which can be milled at a custom millworks company.
Other damage to look for during the scraping process are warped or twisted planks or extensive cracks in the wood which typically occurs in desert climates. These sections of wood should also be replaced.
Step 2: Sand and Brush
Once wood has been scraped and the damaged sections replaced, it's time to grab a wire brush and sander for the next leg of the project.
Wood that has been exposed to weather will eventually break down into a matte of dense fibers that can be scraped loose with a fingernail. Before you can cover up that weathered wood with a coat of paint, those loose fibers must be removed. For larger structures, a wire brush is an easy way to knock off the remaining pieces of paint and surface fibers, while also roughing up the wood's surface for better paint adhesion. Flat surfaces such as moldings and soffits can be easily sanded with a belt sander.
While you might not want to put this degree of work into prepping your old outbuilding or barn, this is an important step that will ensure a long-lasting paint job and the future longevity of the structure.
Step 3: Apply Caulk Where Needed
Even an old outbuilding can benefit from a little caulking. Caulk prevents water from seeping behind vulnerable areas of the outbuilding and developing into rot.
We used a high-quality acrylic caulk on our barn to seal the corner joints, seams and trim pieces around doors and windows. The caulk not only protects the wood, but gives a nice clean look to the architectural details of the structure by removing shadow lines.
Step 4: Wash It Down With a Hose
Once the caulk has dried, the outbuilding can be given a good rinsing with a garden hose and scrub brush to knock off dirt, sawdust and other debris that may prevent paint from properly adhering. After washing, the building should be allowed to dry thoroughly.
For taller buildings, we discovered an RV cleaning brush extended our reach by about six feet and was a real time-saving tool for scrubbing down our two-story barn. This hollow, long-handled brush attached to a garden hose, and allowed us to rinse and scrub the barn all in one step. These brushes are available at RV centers and cost around $80.
Step 5: Apply Primer
The saying goes that a "paint job is only as good as the primer." While it may be tempting to slap some paint on the outbuilding and call it good, for a more attractive and long-lasting paint job, applying a primer base coat is an important step that should not be skipped. Primers help to block stains that can seep into your topcoat, provides a clean and uniform finish and will improve topcoat adhesion. Without a primer, the top coat is more susceptible to flaking.
Since our barn had been treated with linseed oil in the past, it was recommended that we use a high-quality, oil-based primer, applied in two separate applications at a 24-hour interval. The first application of primer was absorbed immediately into the wood, but the second application of primer did a fantastic job of covering the weathered siding. The two applications of primer were followed with two coats of high-quality exterior latex paint for a clean, smooth finish. Had the barn not been treated with linseed oil, a high-quality latex primer could have been used instead.
Painting an old, weathered building is not an easy overnight task for the do-it-yourselfer and can take several weeks to get it just right. But for an old-house person who loves the look of a historic outbuilding on their property, restoring a weathered old barn is a project most certainly worth doing.

Friday 16 May 2014

different types of wallpaper

MATERIALS:


solid sheet vinyl:

Solid Sheet Vinyl wallpapers are printed on a 100% vinyl material and are commonly embossed to give them a luxurious textural effect. These wallpapers are quite durable and are usually scrubbable, making them easy to clean and maintain. They are also peelable which means the wallpaper will peel off the wall easily, leaving some of the backing on the wall, which can typically be removed with soap and water or in some cases a wallpaper removal solution may be necessary.


non-woven:

Non-Woven wallpapers are an advanced technically improved wallpaper material that was introduced to the market over eight years ago and is fast becoming the preferred substrate for wallpaper. Made of a fibrous material, non-woven wallpapers are easier to install and even easier to remove! They will dry-strip from the wall, usually leaving the wall smooth and abrasion free. Many Non-Wovens are vinyl free making them an environmentally friendly wallpaper option. 


easy-walls:

Easy-Walls is an environmentally friendly wallpaper substrate. It is vinyl free, with no PVC or VOC and is printed with water based inks. Wallpaper made with this eco-chic material is pre-pasted and easy to install and easy to remove without harsh chemicals, making wallpaper décor projects a pleasure! The revolutionary Easy-Walls wallpapers are also washable and breathable, inhibiting mold and mildew. 


grasscloth:

Grasscloth wallpapers are hand crafted and unique; made of natural and exotic materials harvested throughout Asia. Grasscloth's create a natural and highly textural look on walls that is understated and timeless. Most grasscloth wallpapers are made of 100% natural materials making them environmentally friendly. It is recommended that stains on grasscloth wallpaper be attended to with clean water a damp white cloth/sponge. Professional cleaning may be necessary. 


paper:

Wallpapers printed on paper are not as common as in previous years, but are still present in the marketplace. Paper wallpapers are environmentally friendly and showcase flat inks and designs very nicely, but due to the delicate nature of paper, these wallpapers have proven to tear easily during the removal process. 


acrylic coated/vinyl coated paper:

Acrylic Coated/Vinyl Coated wallpapers are printed on paper and treated with a coating for durability and washability/scrubbability. These wallpapers are easily maintained and are unaffected by long tern exposure to humidity making them ideal for kitchens and baths. 


expanded vinyl:

Expanded Vinyl wallpapers are printed with a special ink that expands with heat giving them a raised surface effect known as "blown" creating a soft but dimensionally textured wallpaper. Most "Paintable" wallpapers are examples of an expanded vinyl wallpaper, but also is common printing technique used to create faux effects like bricks, woods and stones. 


heavy-weight vinyl:

Heavy-weight Vinyl wallpapers are deeply embossed using a thick vinyl material. These wallpapers offer a very luxurious look and feel and are commonly used in Italian wallpaper manufacturing. 


fabric-backed vinyl:

Fabric-Backed Vinyl wallpapers have a fabric backing which makes them highly durable. Because of their ability to be bumped and scratched without being damaged, these are most commonly used for commercial jobs where high levels of durability are a must. 


molded linoleum:

Molded Linoleum wallpapers are used primarily in the Lincrusta Collection. Lincrusta wallpapers are a highly durable and dimensional wallcovering that replicates the feeling of custom molding or paneling which can be top-coated with any paint or stain for desired effects. 

PASTE:


prepasted:

Prepasted wallpapers have a cured adhesive applied to the backing, which is activated with water. These wallpapers must be booked before hanging, for detailed hanging instructions for prepasted wallpaper see our How to Hang Prepasted Wallpaper guide. 


unpasted:

Unpasted wallpapers have no paste applied to the backing so paste will be needed. Unless specifically mentioned in the instructions that come with the wallpaper, these can be hung with standard wallpaper pastes available at your nearest paint and wallpaper store. We recommend hanging these using the paste-the-wall method, but you should check the instructions to see if the manufacturer recommends pasting the backing, in which case you will need to book the wallpaper. For detailed instructions about hanging unpasted wallpaper, see our How to Hang Wallpaper guide. 


MATCH:


straight match:

Wallpapers with a straight match have a pattern that is can be continued across the width of the wallpaper. This means that the pattern continues across the seam and matched to the same point of the pattern on the next strip. 


drop match:

Wallpaper patterns with a drop match do not repeat across the width from strip to strip. The next strip will need to be dropped either a quarter or half the repeat on the next strip to match the pattern from strip to strip. If you need to drop half of the repeat it is called a Half Drop and if you need to drop a quarter of the repeat it is a quarter drop. 


random match (aka free match):

Wallpaper with a random match have no design repeat, this means that is does not matter where you match the next strip of wallpaper, it will always continue the design. Textures, grasscloths, and stripes are all examples of patterns with a random match. 


REPEAT:

The design repeat of a wallpaper tells you how many inches the pattern is vertically, until it repeats itself again. Patterns with no repeats (like textures) will have little waste, but larger designs (with repeats above 21") may require more wallpaper because there is more waste because you need to match the pattern from strip to strip and can lose up to the pattern repeat on each strip to match them properly. 


WIDTH:

This is the width of the wallpaper (or the border), the most common width is 20.5", but there are also many wallpapers that are 21", 27" and 36". 20.5" and 21" wallpapers are usually 33' long per bolt (or 16.5' per single roll), 27" wallpapers are usually 27' long per bolt (or 13.5' per single roll), and 36" wallpapers (usually grasscloths) are 24' per bolt (or 12' per single roll). 


SINGLE ROLL COVERAGE:

This is the square footage that you will get from a single roll of the wallpaper (or spool of border). This is simply a calculation of the width (above) times the single roll lengths (above). Sidewalls are usually priced in single roll increments, but must be purchased as double rolls or bolts since this is how they are packaged. So to get the bolt (or double roll) coverage simply multiply this number by 2.
When calculating the amount needed for a job see our Wallpaper Calculator page, or use this square footage to determine how many single rolls you need. Be sure to deduct for doors and windows and add more if you have a large design repeat. 

WASHABILITY:


scrubbable:

Scrubbable wallpapers can be scrubbed with a sponge, scrubbale wallpaper have a higher level of durability than washable wallpapers. You can use a soap or mild detergent on scrubbable wallpaper. 


washable:

Washable wallpapers can be lightly cleaned with a sponge or a damp cloth. You should take care when cleaning washable wallpapers, but if you are gentle, they should clean easily. 


wipe with a damp cloth

These wallpapers should be washed gently with great care, they are more fragile than others and you should be careful cleaning. 


REMOVABILITY:


strippable:

Strippable wallpapers can be dry stripped from the wall without leaving any backing behind. These are the most removable papers in the market and usually are printed on a Non-Woven substrate. 


peelable:

Peelable wallpapers will peel off the wall, leaving some of the backing behind. The backing can be often removed with soap and water, but sometimes a wallpaper removal solution may be necessary.

how to hang wall murals

HOW TO HANG MURALS

wallpaper removal
  1. Please refer to the instructions that came with your mural as different murals have different installation methods. In general, installing murals is similar to installing wallpaper. Before you begin, make sure that the wall space that the mural will cover is smooth and has been primed. The wall should be free of dirt, and oil, and any holes or bumps should be filled or sanded smooth. Our murals are not for outdoor use, and should be installed in a room with an average temperature between 18° and 20° Celsius or 60° -70° Fahrenheit.

  2. Arrange the pieces of the mural in front of the wall where they will be installed in the proper order. Make sure that colors match up evenly at the seams before pasting the mural. If the mural is smaller than the total wall space, mark out the dimensions lightly in pencil on the wall using a level and tape measure to create a straight center line and make sure that the area is level.

  3. If the mural is unpasted, we recommend installing it using the paste-the-wall method. If you choose to apply the paste to the panels themselves, be sure to "book" each panel, letting it rest for the amount of time recommended by the adhesive, so that the paste can activate and the panel can expand and contract before applying it to the wall. This will ensure a firm bond and prevent your seams from separating. If your mural is pre-pasted, "book" each panel after wetting it to activate the glue.

  4. Depending on the size of the wall and the type of mural being installed, decide where it would be easiest for you to begin installing your mural panels. It may work best for you to begin installing the panels from the bottom left corner. Or, it may make the most sense to start from one of the center panels and work your way out. Some murals will come with recommendations on which panel is the easiest to start with. Install the first panel, being careful to ensure that it is straight with your plumb line as a guide. Use a smoothing tool to firmly adhere the mural panel to the wall, sweeping your tool across the strip from the center outwards and working out all air bubbles. Apply additional strips in the same method, matching up the pattern at the seam and carefully smoothing out all bubbles as you go. Properly "booked" panels should not shrink when they dry, but be sure to smooth the seams together as you go to be sure that they will not separate.

  5. If the mural is larger than the wall space, cut along the corners or edges of the wall using a sharp knife and a straight-edge as a guide. Make long cuts, without lifting the blade.

wallpaper over wooden panels

HOW TO INSTALL WALLPAPER OVER PANELING

wallpaper-over-paneling
Considering wallpaper to cover wood paneling? Perk up dark and outdated paneled walls with a fresh wallpaper cover up. Another popular option to cover wood paneled walls is Paintable wallpapers! Choose from a wonderful variety of styles and designs from period designs like pressed tin to textures and modern motifs. Even better, Paintable wallpapers may be left unpainted for a clean white look or can be painted with any paint color of your choosing.
  1. If the grooves in your paneling are 1/4 inch deep or more, hide them by filling them with caulk. Wipe away the overflow of caulk by running a putty knife along the groove.

  2. Once caulk is dry, prime the paneling with a stain-blocking latex primer. Let dry completely. Coat walls with an acrylic-emulsion sizing or one recommended by the liner manufacturer. Sizing creates a rough surface to help the liner adhere.

  3. A heavy-duty wallpaper liner, available where wallpaper is sold, is the secret to the project’s success. Hang the liner horizontally. This ensures that the seams of the liner and the decorative wallpaper won’t align.

  4. Hang wallpaper vertically over the liner according to manufactures instructions. See our how-to-hang wallpaper section for more detailed instructions.

  5. If you are using paintable wallpaper, be sure to wait until the paper is completely dry. We recommend painting over paintable wallpaper with 2 coats of latex paint.

Saturday 26 April 2014


                                   painter and decorator
Painters and decorators use a range of coverings to enhance and protect surfaces. These surfaces could include plaster, metal and wood. If you like practical work and enjoy being artistic, this could be a perfect career for you.
To be a painter and decorator, you should have good practical and creative skills. You will need to be able to work carefully and pay attention to detail. Sometimes you’ll need a good head for heights.
Employers often prefer people with some relevant experience. You could start by looking for work as a painter and decorator's labourer or 'mate'.

                                  The work

As a painter and decorator, you would work on a variety of domestic and industrial projects ranging from re-decorating homes to applying heavy-duty finishes to large structures like bridges.
On a domestic job, you would use paint, varnishes and wallpaper to decorate rooms. You would follow the householder's instructions about choice of colour, finishing texture and wallpaper patterns. Your main tasks would include:
  • measuring surface areas to work out how much paint or wall covering you need
  • stripping off old wallpaper or paint
  • filling holes and cracks and making sure surfaces are level
  • preparing surfaces with primer and undercoat
  • mixing paint to the right shade, either by hand or using computerised colour-matching equipment
  • applying layers of paint and hanging wallpaper
  • tidying up after finishing a job.
On some jobs you might apply specialist finishes such as rag rolling, graining and marbling. You would often work from ladders or raised platforms to reach ceilings.
For industrial projects, such as bridges or ships, you would remove old paintwork with abrasive blasting methods before applying new coatings using industrial paint spraying equipment. You would use a cradle or safety harness when working.
Paints and solvents give off fumes, so you may have to wear a protective mask or use fume extraction equipment on some jobs, if in enclosed spaces.

                                      Hours
You would work around 40 hours a week, Monday to Friday. Extra hours may be necessary to meet deadlines.
You would be expected to travel from site to site and some jobs may require overnight stays away from home.

                                    Income
Starting salaries can be between £14,500 and £17,000 a year.
Average salaries for qualified painters and decorators are between £17,500 and £23,000 a year. Decorators with supervisor duties or specialist skills can earn over £23,000 a year.
Overtime and shift allowances can increase income. Self-employed painters and decorators set their own pay rates.
Figures are intended as a guideline only.


                          Entry requirements
Employers often prefer people with some relevant experience, so you could start by looking for work as a painter and decorator's labourer or 'mate'. Once you are working, your employer may give you the chance to take further training in painting and decorating. See the Training and development section below for more details.
Another option is to take a college course, which would give you some of the skills needed to start in this job. Courses include:
  • Level 1 Award/Certificate in Basic Construction Skills (Painting and Decorating)
  • Level 1 Certificate in Construction Crafts - Painting and Decorating
  • Level 1/2/3 Diploma in Painting and Decorating.
For more details about courses and entry requirements, contact your local college.
You may be able to start your career by joining an Apprenticeship scheme. You will need to check which schemes are available in your area. To find out more about Apprenticeships, see the Apprenticeships website.

                       Training and development
Once you are working, you could take further work-based qualifications to develop your career. Qualifications are generally split into two areas of work, depending on your job:
  • Level 2/3 (NVQ) Diploma in Decorative Finishing and Painting Occupations - Painter (includes brush and roller techniques for interiors and exteriors, fitting and hanging wall coverings, specialised finishes, and installing coving and ceiling centre pieces)
  • Level 2/3 (NVQ) Diploma in Decorative Finishing and Industrial Painting Occupations (includes preparing work areas with special treatments, abrasive blasting, applying industrial finishes and paint spraying methods).
Construction Skills Certification Scheme (CSCS)
Many building contractors will want you to have a CSCS card before you can work on their sites. The card is proof of your skills and ability to carry out the job safely. To get your card, you must:
  • pass the CITB Health, Safety and Environment test
  • prove your occupational competence (by holding appropriate qualifications).
If you are working without qualifications, you may be able to use the On-site Assessment Workshop or Experienced Worker Practical Assessment (EWPA) schemes to gain a qualification and qualify for a CSCS card. See the Assessment Workshop and EWPA websites 

Painting & Decorating Apprenticeships Fact Sheet

What does a Painter & Decorator do?
Work out the quantity of materials needed for the job by taking surface measurements or by looking at job specifications or drawings.
  • Erect scaffolding, cradles, ladders and place drop sheets to protect areas from dripping.
  • Remove old paint or paper by sanding and scraping.
  • Select and prepare paints, stains, varnishes and other finishes.
  • Spray paint surfaces using a spray gun or specialised equipment.
  • Apply decorative paint finishes such as stencils, colour gazes, graining, marbling and lettering.
  • Wash equipment and clean work areas.
What personal attributes might a successful Painter & Decorator have?
  • Physically fit
  • Able to work at heights
  • Enjoy practical work
  • Good hand to eye co‐ordination
  • Normal colour vision
  • Good sense of balance
  • Able to work independently and as part of a team
How long does it take to complete a Painting & Decorating Apprenticeship?
Generally apprenticeships are a four‐year term with the apprentice attending of the job training at TAFE or another training provider for one day per week during the first three years.
How much does an Apprentice Painter & Decorator earn?
Whilst pay rates might vary depending on the actual work site, base weekly wage rates for an Apprentice Painter & Decorators in each year of the trade is based off the appropriate Modern Award or specific host EBA.
What is group training and how does it work?
Group Training Organisations such as Novaskill, employ apprentices and trainees in many occupations for the entire duration of their training period. We then lease these apprentices and trainees out to other local businesses. This means that apprentices often get the opportunity to work with different businesses over their four‐year training period, resulting in a broader range of skills and the development of strong industry contacts for employment as a tradesperson at the end of the training period.
How do I apply for employment with NovaSkill?
For more information on any of these qualfications, contact your local NovaSkill office on 1300 885 680.
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